
If you've visited me in New Orleans, these spots are likely familiar. For those of you traveling to NOLA for the first time, here is my "must-do" list.
This is neither a foodie list nor a tourist index. It's my "Thank God I'm Home" list.
No ranking is implied.
On my last trip home, my parents drove me straight straight from the airport to
Mandina's for a 1/2 shrimp & 1/2 oyster po-boy and a Bloody Mary. It's loud, it's local and it's easy to access: Take the Canal St. streetcar. Tip: If they're in season, order the soft shell crabs.
Esplanade Ridge is like an Everlasting Gobstopper. It's the neighborhood that gives and gives and just when I think I'm finished it gives some more. The tree canopy is divine and allows for summertime strolling. Grab an iced mocha at
Fair Grinds and walk down to the St. Louis 3 cemetery to see angel sculptures worthy of French cinema. Keep going one block to wander along Bayou St. John and into City Park (get your southern gothic moss on here). When you're ready for lunch or dinner, go to
Cafe Degas for fresh, high-quality but not outrageous French country fare. Think Salad Nicoise, pates, fromage and wine.
Elizabeth's in Bywater has a breakfast menu that'll put you back to sleep until about 3pm. That isn't a bad thing. Trust me. Just plan accordingly. You'll need to take a cab.
If you like champagne, crumbling courtyards, damp, fern-sprouting brick walls, and fountains with fat goldfish, go to
Feelings Cafe. Many will say it's more about atmosphere than food. I won't disagree, but keep in mind that in NOLA, you can't throw a stone without hitting a good restaurant. And what's good to us is exceptional in any other town. I waited tables at Feelings for a year and never, ever turned down a meal that came out of that kitchen. Decidedly un-trendy and a Marigny neighborhood haunt for thirty years.
In the Quarter, go to the
Napoleon House for a muffaletta and a Pimm's Cup. If someone brings me a muffaletta from Central Grocery, great. However, I don't like lines and I always encounter one there.
Folks get very opinionated about restaurants like
Galatoire's. Is it worth it? Too touristy? Yes to both questions. It gets loud (lots of intoxicated lawyers and ladies-who-lunch). Get ready to see ridiculous hats and seersucker suits. Still, it has the best Trout Amandine EVER.
These selections are no doubt influenced by the neighborhoods in which I grew up and lived as an adult. It's short on spots in the Garden District, Uptown, and Riverbend, but it's from the heart of a local.